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CLIMBING
ACHIEVEMENTS
Significant Alpine Ice / Mixed Achievements:
- The North Face (TD M6 A0). First winter ascent of Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos, BC (with Marc Piche, 2006).
- The Voice of Unreason (ED2 M7 A1 WI5, 700m). New route (to north ridge; not to summit) on the northwest face of Kichatna Spire in the Kichatna range, Alaska (with Rob Owens and Roger Strong, 2005).
- Amy Coulior (D+ M5 WI3, 450m). Winter ascent of Guillaumet in the Fitz Roy range of Patagonia, Argentina (with Will Mayo, 2004).
- Maxim (ED1 M4 WI5, 1000m). New route on the south face (to the west ridge; not to summit) of Thunder Mountain on the Tokositna Glacier, Alaska Range (with Shawn Huisman, 2004).
- Canadian Bacon (ED1 M5 WI4, 900m). New route on the east face of Royal Tower in Little Switzerland, Alaska Range (with Shawn Huisman, 2004).
- Spinstone Gully (TD+ M7 R, 400m) and Perma Grin (D+ M5 WI4, 350m). Two new mixed routes on the Howser Towers in the Bugaboos, BC (with Scott Semple and Brian Webster, 2002).
- Royale with Cheese (V M6 WI5, 700m). New route on the southeast buttress of Pik Unmarked Soldier in the West Kokshaal-Tau range of Krygyzstan, plus two other new alpine mixed routes (with Scott Decapio, 2001).
- North Face (IV 5.9 WI4, 500m). First ascent of an unclimbed mountain (Pik Ljosha) in the West Kokshaal-tau range of Kyrgyzstan (with Guy Edwards, 1998).
Significant Alpine Rock Achievements:
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Wild Fire (V 5.12-, 360m). First ascent of the northwest face of Wide Awake Tower in the Bugaboos, BC (with Matt Maddaloni, 2003).
- Azad Kashmir (V 5.10+ R, 700m). First ascent of an unclimbed 5200m granite tower in the Kharidas Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan (with Todd Offenbacher and Nils Davis, 2000).
- The Magic Carpet Ride (VI 5.10 A3+, 800m). First ascent of the east face of Cerro Mascara (The Mummer) in Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile (with Conny Amelunxen, 1999).
- Chocolate Fudge Brownie (VI 5.9 A2, 500m). Second ascent of the west face of Central Howser Tower in the Bugaboos via a new route (with Brian Webster, 1999).
- South Face (V 5.10+, 750m). One day ascent of the south face of Pik 4810 in the Ak-su Valley, Kyrgyzstan (with Guy Edwards, 1998).
- Duraznos para Don Quijote (IV 5.10+ A1, 500m). New route on Peineta in Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile (with Guy Edwards, 1997).
- Trout Fishing in America (V 5.10+ A3, 350m). First ascent of the east face of Block Tower in the Leaning Tower group of the Purcell Mountain, BC (with Guy Edwards, 1997).
Significant Mixed Climbing Achievements:
- Hardest redpoint: Musashi (M12) at The Cineplex in the Canadian Rockies (2004).
- Hardest flash: Ecstasy (M10-) at St Alban in Quebec (2004).
- Over 70 mixed first acsents in the Canadian Rockies (1998-2006).
- 16 new ice and mixed routes on the Stanley Headwall in Kootenay National Park, Canadian Rockies, including Fiasco (V M8 WI5+), Uniform Queen (V M7 WI5), Thriller (IV M9- WI5), French Toast (V M7 WI5) and Dawn of the Dead (V M8+ WI6) (with Dave Thomson, 1997-2005).
- First ascent of five M10 or harder mixed routes: Orgasmo (M10-), Caveman (M10), Miller Swiller (M10), Caterpillar (M10) and Phyllis Diller (M11).
- Cryophobia (V M8+ WI5+). First ascent of modern multi-pitch mixed route in the Ghost, Canadian Rockies, with its 7 pitches going at M4, M7+, M8+, M7, M8, M6+ and WI5+ (with Shawn Huisman, 2001).
- First place in Canmore Speed Climbing Competition (2000).
- Third place in Ouray Invitational Competition (2005).
- Fourth place in Festiglace du Quebec Competition (2004).
Significant Big Wall and Aid Climbing Achievements:
- Dion's Dihedral (VI 5.9 A3, 600m). New route on the east face of La Esfinge in Peru's Cordillera Blanca range (with Larry Dolecki, 1999).
- Club International (V 5.10+ A2, 600m). New route on the southeast face of Bustle Tower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, NWT (with Andreas Taylor, 1997).
- Skull F$&% (VI 5.7 A4). New aid route on the Sheriff's Badge in Squamish, BC (with Sean Easton, 1996).
- Nose-in-a-Day (VI 5.11 A2, 900m). A one-day, onsight ascent of THE classic El Cap big wall in Yosemite (with Adam Donahue and Shawn ???, 1996).
- Halfdome-in-a-Day (VI 5.10 A1, 600m). A one day, onsight ascent of the Regular Northwest Face route on Half Dome in Yosemite (with Andreas Taylor, 1996).
- Cats Ass (V 5.9 A3, 250m). New route in the Narrows, Zion (with Claus Shock, 1995).